I "learned" how to apply makeup in my early years when receiving modeling and "charm" education. At this time, I also learned how to sit, stand, and walk down stairs properly. I had the distinct honor of being the only girl in the group of young teens to be told that I did not need to pluck my eyebrows, merely groom them. As a result, I never have, and thus have not yet experienced the "no brow" problem many of us have when growing older.
Just watch. Tomorrow half of one will fall out and the other will turn white.
Anyway, I invested a few hours in figuring out how to do Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra Makeup for my enlightening, unusual, and strange time being "her" and learning to my distress that blondes did have more "fun" if fun is categorized as being treated with good humor and not being poked and pawed.
This is the guideline photo that I used. It should go without saying that much more vivid, darker and brilliant colors are used than most people would have in their ordinary makeup palettes. If you're going to do this for Halloween, you should use real makeup, and there are so many choices today. HIP or "high intensity pigments" are good over the counter choices; obviously MAC has many dark, vivid choices as well - it seems to me that's a whole line that looks best on darker-skinned complexions, and says "Klown" on blondes.
But I am blonde, and with care, went Elizabeth Taylor - a wig and false eyelashes are required. Start your eye makeup after applying moisturizer, foundation prep, and foundation to the entire face and neck. You can complete your cheeks and lips after the eyes - the most difficult part.
The first challenge is the brows. Look carefully at the picture. The peak of the brow arch is not directly over the pupil of her eyes, it is actually at the outer edge of each iris. So, if your brows do not naturally follow this shape, your first task is to find that point on your browbone, and mark it with a dark brow pencil. Depending on how thick your brows are, you are going to need to either carefully increase the width, using a brow pencil and a brush, or decrease the width. The next step is to delineate the inner corner of each brow at the desired width. In her case, this is slanted slightly toward the bridge of the nose, but the actual starting point of each brow is directly above the inner corner of each of her eyes. Pencil in the color in the desired areas to create the shape with a brow pencil, then brush for a more natural look. Let this rest - you will complete and finish the look after you apply eyeshadow, liner, and mascara and/or the false eyelashes.
If you are wearing false eyelashes, those are usually applied first. In this case, I don't think la Liz used false lashes - her own were very long and thick, and there's definitely no lower false eyelash deck on there. If you do have long, thick lashes, curl them first, then begin to apply shadow.
First, apply a soft, skin-toned pearl shadow over the entire lid. Then, apply the lid color. Be brave. It extends about 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch beyond the outer corner of each eye, into the crease of the eye, and it should be blended well into the pearl shadow which remains on the brow area. In this photo, it looks as though she also has a charcoal-colored shadow lightly applied in the crease of the eye, extending out and blending into the dark lid color. With either the charcoal or lid color, extend the shadow on each eye above the inner lid and upward beside the bridge of the nose and blend carefully. If you get makeup on your nose - wipe it off - that's not part of the look <G>. As to colors, I used similar colors to those that she used, because my eyes are about the same color as hers. If you have brown, hazel or black eyes, use your best, deep contrasting colors. I know that blue brings out brown eyes, but do NOT use "electric" blue, but rather a soft, navy blue, and a soft brow highlighting (the "overall" lid color) that matches your skin tone. These are not clashing clown eyes, they are very sophisticated painted eyes. As to tools, I used two of my sable watercolor brushes. Similar soft, good brushes are now sold at all good makeup stores such as Sephora and Ulta. Don't ever skimp on this type of brush. You can't obtain any decent look with cheap, stiff brushes.
People might disagree with me, but I think that the elaborate eyeliner was achieved with black cake eyeliner and a sable brush. Today there are numerous liquid waterproof eyeliners in a billion dark colors. If you look carefully, Elizabeth's liner is definitely cake eyeliner carefully applied with a fine brush and then "fixed." Depending on your foundation, skin type, and foundation primer used, this will probably be the best method. The problem with liquid eyeliners is that their brushes are made of synthetics, usually a little stiff, and are difficult to control, unlike a real sable brush (an artist's - or a fine makeup brush). I also have used Maybelline liquid eyeliner - the basic type, that goes with the basic pink-tube Maybelline mascara. Your liner, and mascara, for this look are black - do not use other or "shiny" colors for this look, which will reduce the drama and impact. You can use "soft black" if you have fairer skin like me. Part of the lining can be done with a waterproof, soft eyeliner pencil, as this is thick eyelining, and you can refine with the liquid. The key with the lining is the same as with mascara - several light, delicate coats are much better than one thick, heavy one. You can carefully refine the lines and shapes to follow the exotic lines. The liner extends all the way to the temple on both sides, ending at the exact point that the brows end.
After you have completed the liner, apply mascara (on your bottom lashes at the least - and if you're blonde, you know to apply on the top too with false eyelashes, right? Because when you open your eyes, the light lashes will show under the dark false lashes unless you blend, etc.). I did an all-mascara look - which is about 3 thin coats of high-quality (i.e. Maybelline - don't laugh - nearly everyone knows that truly is the best mascara) water-resistant mascara. The problem with water-proof is not just that it is difficult to remove, it also tends to cake more, which looks hideous. And - it can also help to do each eye slowly using the best lighting and a 10X magnifying mirror.
Then, complete your cheek color. This picture shows only a light, delicate peach blush on the cheeks, applied to the hollows of the cheeks, brushed lightly onto the temples, and slightly over the "apples" of the cheeks. Blend thoroughly.
Now it is time to complete the brows. I used to use Max Factor "Brow Tamer," which is no longer available. I know that Elizabeth Taylor herself uses and recommends brow gel. A substitute can be hairspray, sprayed onto a brow brush (the stiff type). Any clear mascara also doubles as "brow tamer." There are numerous brow products out now, and I have used some - but they tend to be clumpy and bumpy and you are looking for perfection, not brow clump. Use your fingers to make sure your brows are even and are producing the shape and line that you want above your eyes. Do not be afraid to go dark, and as you complete your brows, check and match carefully with the eye makeup and liner. This is an exotic, extreme, but balanced look.
After this is dry, then complete your look by finishing your lips. La Liz's lips in every Cleopatra picture are a gorgeous, soft peach. They are beautifully done, but meant to balance her face and not compete with the dramatic eyes. In my case, I had to "create" an upper lip matching the heart-bow shape of hers. I had to be careful, because nothing looks worse than a clumsy "created" lip. Again, there are so many lip choices today that were not available back in the Cleopatra filming days. I can tell that she is wearing some pretty advanced stuff for the time - average women had lovely choices ranging from fire engine red, to brick red, to pink, maybe "salmon," and the old standby: red. And then some red. And some more greasy red.
Carefully, with a good, soft nude colored lip pencil, outline the even lip shape slightly outside your natural lip line. You can see where this is drawn in the photo, especially on the outer corners of her lips. This is the same technique used today for "fuller" lips." If your lips are not so full, don't go overboard, just do what looks natural for you. You can try a lip plumper if you can stand it, and if your gentleman doesn't hate your guts for it (they sting - I haven't used one for a while and maybe they don't any more). Also, don't forget, most guys also hate sticky lipgloss - and La Liz is wearing a touch of gloss, but I bet it isn't the sticky type. Fill in your lips with a peach-pink-toned lipstick with a touch of shimmer. These are not matte lips. Fix the lipstick with powder, then reapply, then top off with shiny gloss.
Stick your wig on your head, or do your hairstyle if you have black hair! You are Cleopatra!
